Real Progress
Allright. After spending an hour scrubbing the goop off the tranny case, I lubed up the clutch splines (mmmm...lithium grease) and shoved the tranny back in place. Y'know, I dont see how I managed to do this stuff before having a stand/table to use. Man my back and knees ache remembering doing tranny and motor swaps on the floor of my old garage. oog.
Man the difference between the tranny and motor is bad. Looks like I gotta clean that too. The odd texture is because traditionally the tranny is painted with silver paint. Um no. Why on earth would I want to paint aluminum. It aint like it rusts. And paint inevitably starts to look like ass.
This right here is the single most expensive part I have put on the bike this time around. 300 bones. But it is a sweet bit of metal and rather necessary.
One thing about getting the U joint and swingarm and tranny all hooked together...it's a bitch. The spline tolerances are close indeed. The only way I know of is to put the boot on the tranny. Then lube up the splines real good with heavy grease. Fit the joint into the swingarm. Mount the swingarm to the shocks to support the backend. Now while hefting the front end of the swingarm with one hand, use the other to simultaneously hold back the rubber boot and manipulate the greasy tiny bit of the u-joint with your fingers and try to mate the tight fitting splines onto the tranny. It aint easy. Lots of finger pinching, sweating and swearing. Then all at once it lines up and *zoot* it slips together, usually pinching a tender digit as the heavy swingarm slides forward. It's about like trying to grab the tail end of a greasy snake through a knothole and pull him backwards through it. Once it does slip together it is time for a beer and a rest.
There is is. Put a big old Monster house style "DONE" stamp on it.
The swingarm bolts are interesting. They appear to be a similar set up as an airhead beemer. Two special bolts act as pivot points and are used to line the swingarm up with the frame and tranny. On the downside, they vary from the BMW type in that the tool used to set te bolt depth is a pin wrench rather than a big hex key. Minor dealio since you can use a pair of nails and a screwdriver if you have to. You dont have to screw em down tight. In fact you dont want to. Once I set the depth, I back them off a quarter turn so that they arent pinching the swingarm and digging a hole in it. One way that this setup is better than BMW is that the bolts stick out from the frame, so you can center the swingarm by measuring the amount of bolt sticking out and adjust each side until it is even. With everything else mounted up (motor, tranny, shocks) so it is just hanging about where it all needs to be, I will screw in one side until it just touches the swingarm. Then the other side until it meets the swingarm on that side. And then adjust until they are even. Then comes the locking nut. Another nicety...no need for a special ground or lathed 27mm socket. Any old 27mm will do. And finally the cap nut. Another nice honest metal cover instead of the plastic BMW caps that are prone to falling off in the middle of nowhere.
We are getting there.
Man the difference between the tranny and motor is bad. Looks like I gotta clean that too. The odd texture is because traditionally the tranny is painted with silver paint. Um no. Why on earth would I want to paint aluminum. It aint like it rusts. And paint inevitably starts to look like ass.
This right here is the single most expensive part I have put on the bike this time around. 300 bones. But it is a sweet bit of metal and rather necessary.
One thing about getting the U joint and swingarm and tranny all hooked together...it's a bitch. The spline tolerances are close indeed. The only way I know of is to put the boot on the tranny. Then lube up the splines real good with heavy grease. Fit the joint into the swingarm. Mount the swingarm to the shocks to support the backend. Now while hefting the front end of the swingarm with one hand, use the other to simultaneously hold back the rubber boot and manipulate the greasy tiny bit of the u-joint with your fingers and try to mate the tight fitting splines onto the tranny. It aint easy. Lots of finger pinching, sweating and swearing. Then all at once it lines up and *zoot* it slips together, usually pinching a tender digit as the heavy swingarm slides forward. It's about like trying to grab the tail end of a greasy snake through a knothole and pull him backwards through it. Once it does slip together it is time for a beer and a rest.
There is is. Put a big old Monster house style "DONE" stamp on it.
The swingarm bolts are interesting. They appear to be a similar set up as an airhead beemer. Two special bolts act as pivot points and are used to line the swingarm up with the frame and tranny. On the downside, they vary from the BMW type in that the tool used to set te bolt depth is a pin wrench rather than a big hex key. Minor dealio since you can use a pair of nails and a screwdriver if you have to. You dont have to screw em down tight. In fact you dont want to. Once I set the depth, I back them off a quarter turn so that they arent pinching the swingarm and digging a hole in it. One way that this setup is better than BMW is that the bolts stick out from the frame, so you can center the swingarm by measuring the amount of bolt sticking out and adjust each side until it is even. With everything else mounted up (motor, tranny, shocks) so it is just hanging about where it all needs to be, I will screw in one side until it just touches the swingarm. Then the other side until it meets the swingarm on that side. And then adjust until they are even. Then comes the locking nut. Another nicety...no need for a special ground or lathed 27mm socket. Any old 27mm will do. And finally the cap nut. Another nice honest metal cover instead of the plastic BMW caps that are prone to falling off in the middle of nowhere.
We are getting there.
posted by Z at
7:39 AM
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